What am I doing here, travel diary, day 13: the B side of another flagship in Qatar

It’s surprising because since Tuesday we’ve been done at Mop. Argentina’s defeat at the hands of Saudi Arabia the worst feelings imaginable emerged. The feeling of defeat was superior to the freezing wind in Argentina. However, Lionel Scaloni’s press conference and the physical appearance of the players in training have given good signs. This means nothing, of course. But at least they managed to break the chain of discouragement and the Argentines who hang out here, in Doha, They went out to make a new flag convinced that it is still possible to arrive at 18 December. This time with the bonus track to pay homage to Diego Maradonatwo years after his still incredible and painful death.

The banner was a mosh that lasted more than an hour nonstop. However, instead of getting into the midst of the turmoil, of the Argentinian and the gang of Indians proclaiming themselves the official bar of the Qatar national team, I chose to see what was happening around Souq Waqif, one of the places that Argentine televisions have chosen as a backdrop for their 24X7 broadcasts where they talk a lot and say little. There is a kind of typical market there, with shops of trinkets and not so much and nice restaurants. And with him golden finger giant, that world postcard of Doha, which I met only 12 days after arriving in this city.

Like everything that happens here, it was weird to see the scenery. Because while hundreds of people wildly chanted for the Escaloneta, in the surroundings life flowed as if nothing had happened. Rare. Why the racket It was important and because there was a danger of losing control. But in the restaurants of the area, almost all protected by a fence and police shutters -as everywhere- groups of friends drank a cold drink while smoking their hookah.

What are hookahs? For the uninitiated, a summary and perhaps a little hasty explanation. Also known as shisha or hookah, are water pipes in which Arabs smoke different types of tobacco. They are a kind of lamps which, instead of cables, contain water and a system that allows the steam to produce the combustion of the tobacco. It was rare to see them calmly smoking as they watched in anthropology student mode as the Argentinean fans waved non-stop. And everything got even more complex when the Indians arrived with their drums and maracas to the rhythm of a frenetic dance, as if they were possessed.

People who passed through the place, an eminently touristic place, watched in amazement. Almost with the same amazement with which some Argentines looked and rubbed their elbows as they saw several grown men walking hand in hand along the pedestrian street. The situation was strange. Because one was wearing a blue tank top and the other a white tank top. One drove and the other escorted. And the sequence, curiously, was repeated. It is again. The weird thing for us is actually a custom between friends in India. Also in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Pakistan.

There were other banners along the Souq Waqif promenade as well. Tunisian fans were among the loudest. There were also Moroccans who moved as a block, as if it were a rugby scrum, but boosted. And there were the Iranians, like crazy, after the triumph over Wales which left them with no hope of reaching the round of 16 after a start to forget against England.

In the midst of all that noise, with vuvuzelas and deafening chants, those who weren’t having fun were the fans of the host team. It’s just that Qatar has already said goodbye to the World Cup: two played and two lost. And goodbye. For this reason it was a little sad to see how some families returned to their homes with their flags lowered. Of course, the festive atmosphere of the invading and migrant fans – who are the majority here and, in general, are fans of the most powerful teams – covered up all the bitterness.

Imagine that situation in Argentina. It’s impossible to imagine. In fact, it’s better not to imagine. We don’t design

Doha, Qatar. Special delivery.