Clarín in Paris: Argentines take over a bar that was La Bombonera for a while and throw their party in the heart of France

A heart attack match, which will probably go down in history as one of the great matches in World Cup history. A Cup that Argentina won on penalties in eternal suffering. An epic gladiatorial battle, a showdown between Lionel Messi and Kyllian Mbappe that looked scripted. an ending France vs Argentina taste of Buenos Aires, in here Parisfor those who could not travel to Qatar.

With five degrees below zero, a mandatory wool hat and the Argentine flag hung like a banner on their backs, the Argentines in Paris met at “Volver”, the restaurant on rue Dauphine, in the heart of St Germain de Pres. A sort of Bombonera, which Enrique and Carlitos command with an iron fist so that it does not overflow. In the last World Cup, the stairs collapsed due to weight and jumps in these 200-year-old buildings.

The restaurant is overflowing. Hundreds of Argentines, together with Italians, Peruvians, Colombians and Ecuadorians embraced each other to celebrate a costly victory, which put everyone on the verge of a nervous breakdown, until Argentina 4-2 on penalties that eliminated France .

Volver’s two floors filled up from one in the afternoon, three hours before the initial whistle. There were not only Latin Americans, but also Moroccans and Africans, but no French, as a matter of security. This time only 40 were allowed on the first floor and the ground floor brought together 100 “diners”, who raved about the previous one. The rest on the sidewalk and on the street. All with Messi masks, beer, mate and an Argentinian Sunday atmosphere for this historic final between France and Argentina.

The Parisian candy box

Choripán, Milanese sandwiches and empanadas and Argentine beer, like every “nostalgic menu”, for 10 euros, before Volver explodes like a football field. Mandatory Argentine T-shirt.

On the walls, fidelity to delirium. There are the shirts of Pastore, Verrati, Lavezzi, Di Maria and Messi hanging and dedicated to Volver. To them are added those of rugby players and polo players who choose this restaurant as a place in the Parisian capital for the Argentinian menu.

The international press has settled down to experience Argentina’s passion for its team with the air of a mini stadium. Journalists from Efe, Tfi, Rfi and Rtl were trying to enter the restaurant while the owners told them that the only ones who could enter were those wearing an Argentine shirt “so as not to create security problems”.

“I came from Corsica above all to enjoy it. There is no interest in Argentina. I rented a small hotel and came here. We knew it was going to be a tough match. France have a great team and so do we. We have Messi. But winning is the best thing that happens to all Argentines, especially those who are there,” said Luciano Raen, a Mar del Plata which produces Argentine gastronomic events on the Mediterranean island.

Songs for the Selection

A bass drum resounded on the ground floor of the Volver, as if we were in Campo del Boca. All the songs from the World Cup start singing. Everything was shaking. “Boys…” they started singing, the hit reaching France.

The first goal was lost by Di María: the full-back suffered.

“Come on Leo, don’t be nervous Leo, come on…”. Encouragement, especially from women, helped him. Goal by Leo Messi from a penalty. The endless epic is just beginning. Not a pin enters.

“We have to score more goals because they can take advantage of us.” It is the women who direct the fans at Volver. Huge play, Messi touches it, they reach the bottom and whoever puts it is Di María. The back explodes. joy is complete

Come back screams, jumps, remains hoarse singing one by one all the songs of the World Cup. All of this takes place in Paris, a city with its icy and empty streets throughout the game. But that in this area of ​​the French metropolis explodes with every pass of the Argentine midfield. Local journalists record with cell phones, astonished.

Macron and the wounded

On the podium at Doha I look Emmanuel Macron, the French president. In his entourage he brought Kante, Kimpembe and Pogba, the injured players of the team, but he did not go up Karin Benzema. His relationship with the manager Didier Deschamps they are still deteriorated. He also brought great legends of French sport. But Michael Platini refused to accept the invitation. His clashes with FIFA and with Gianni Infantino continue. Zinedine Zidane and Laurent Blanc also didn’t agree to go.

“Come, come, sing with me, that by the hand of Leo Messi we all turn!” sang the “craziest gang there is” in Volver. Neighbors began to lean out their windows, despite the cold. Those who were unable to enter due to lack of space celebrated in via Dauphine, with their songs.

Covid is back in Paris. Double face mask to avoid him in a crowd shouting, sweating and cheering in the two story restaurant.

A frozen Paris without screens

The atmosphere at Volver contrasted with the calm of a frozen Paris, where Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo banned the “fan zone” and screens to boycott Qatar. The French watched the game at home with friends or in their bars, where the same rules apply as for the Volver. Either one or the other.

Oriana, an Argentine student of sociology at the Sorbonne, reflected the chilly, very French atmosphere, when they queued from noon on the rue Dauphine, despite their zero grades, to find a place. “When I saw them singing the national anthem, I wanted to go there, to the Obelisk,” she says.

“I am from Naples. I carry Diego in my heart and I have come to support you. It won’t be easy.” Danilo Espósito asked for a leave of absence from his job as a technology salesman in London and arrived in Paris, wrapped in the Argentine flag.

Like him there are Paraguayans and Colombians, who have come to support the Albiceleste squad. Rafael is one of them. “This team has a spirit, a leadership that deserves the cup,” he says.

In France everyone admires their team but they don’t disdain the idea of ​​seeing Messi, their idol at PSG, champion. “France have already won three league titles, Europe takes the Cup, the time has come for South America to have a chance. I don’t care if they win. They have a great team” admits Antoine Tardy.

A party to suffer

“We are Argentinian but we have been living in Barcelona for 20 years. We flew to Paris this week. I think Argentina will win by suffering a lot. It’s part of the show. The match will be defined in the first 90 minutes. We will suffer a lot. But Argentina will win. It’s Messi’s time” said José Luis Peginazzi, as if it were a prophecy.

“Come on, come on Selezione, today we have come to encourage you. To be a champion, today you have to win” sings Volver. The floor still shakes, like the Argentine defense every time Mbappé appears, who arrives at the goal from Dibu Martínez, another praised. People were starting to undress like onions. Everyone warmed up.

From 2 to 0 to draw

Mbappé brought Paris back to life, at least for a while. He tied the score in a flash and Volver’s faces changed from desolation to anger and hope. Extra time and penalties arrived.

“Dibu, Dibu, Dibu…” the Argentines repeated, more and more convinced that the Cup would return to South America. Montiel took the winning penalty and Volver exploded with joy. They ran into the street, embraced each other and the celebrations were the beginning of a night that promises to be long.

“It is the best thing that can happen to the country, to the Argentines, to the students who want to leave, to the teachers, to the workers. The national team has given us back joy and confidence. It is what we need ”, reflects Alicia, a doctoral student from Tucumán, who arrived from Toulouse, where she studies to celebrate in a very Argentine environment.

In this gladiatorial final, Lionel Messi and his harmonious national team offer Argentina the joy of a third World Cup.

From Qatar, special envoy