Long mocked in France for its cutesy side, the Birkenstock has earned its letters of nobility. The very German sandal with a single or double strap now shines on the feet of the trendiest French. Even Bernard Arnault gave in to the “Birk” fashion. Its German manufacturer last year sold the majority of its shares to the French-American investment fund L Catterton, co-founded by the LVMH group, and to the family holding company Financière Agache, Bernard Arnault’s private investment company.
In the world of fashion, it is not uncommon for the tacky to become a “must have”, and vice versa, the Crocs jurisprudence obliges. But only recently did the French appropriate the Birkenstock and wear it like any other shoe. With a reputation for being tough and durable, this sandal has established itself as a true fashion accessory.
The brand itself dates back to 1774, when we find in official records the name of Johann Adam Birkenstock, a shoemaker from Langen-Bergheim. However, it will take a century before the family business takes off. In 1896, master shoemaker Konrad Birkenstock developed the first flexible orthotic insole, and six years later he designed and manufactured the famous curved arch, which hugs the arch of the foot.
Half a century later, in 1963, his grandson, Karl Birkenstock, had the idea of making a shoe around this sole that had become a reference in the world of orthopedics. He then released the Madrid model, the single flange Birkenstock which is still sold today.
counter culture symbol
Three years later, an American named Margot Fraser decided to import the sandal to the United States. Success is dazzling. The “Birk” becomes the symbol of the counterculture and is displayed at the feet of hippies. A “peace and love” side that does not prevent him from conquering the general public.
Its advantages? The medical world began to wear them on a daily basis, completing their reputation as orthopedic shoes. Birkenstock then began to reach other segments of the population, particularly in Germany. In Europe and throughout the world, the sandal then became the symbol of the German tourist. A source of ridicule.
In the 90s, everything changed. Designers Jean-Paul Gaultier and Paco Rabanne parade their models at Birkenstock. The sight of this old-fashioned sandal on the catwalks shakes the certainties of the fashion world and the “fashion victims” begin to adopt it.
In 2002, Birkenstock created a collection in collaboration with the star model of the time, Heidi Klum. The stars are “paparazzied” at Birkenstock, which completes the seduction of the last reluctant who begin to revise the conception of her aesthetic. The “Birk” becomes great.
Collaborations with luxury brands
In the 2010s, descendants of the Birkenstock family handed over control to Olivier Reichert and Markus Bensberg. The duo is rethinking the production chain and decentralizing it to better adapt to the specificities of each market. Delivery times were reduced from two weeks to two days and production capacity increased sixfold in ten years. Birkenstock is already present in 90 countries.
They are also multiplying collaborations with big names in luxury. In 2019, American actress Frances McDormand traded in her heels for a pair of “Birks” to take to the Oscars stage. A lemon yellow model signed by Valentino. This summer, the German firm now part of LVMH collaborated with Dior and launched several models whose prices are around 1,000 euros, when the classic models are sold between 50 and 140 euros.
Since 2014, sales of cork-soled sandals have increased 150%, and by 2018, Birkenstock had sold 27 million sandals worldwide. It is enough to look down the street to guess that since then this figure has been far exceeded.
Source: BFM TV
